Custom & Collaborative Clothing Blog
January 15, 2012 by taylor

Continuation on Wardrobe Re-something

I have been busy with all sorts of things the past few weeks.

One of them was developing a flowchart for use in hard to make clothing purchase decisions.

One of the hardest things about keeping a concise closet is practicing thoughtful shopping. Many of us go out shopping for clothing, either for fun or because we need something specific, and often come back with more than we set out for. For many, this can be a difficult process to navigate. Whether it is a matter of self restraint, thoughtfulness, or simply establishing a budget.

The flowchart above gives you an idea of the line of questioning to utilize before deciding on a clothing purchase. Sometimes, even the act of questioning the purchase is enough to get you thinking that you might not need it. However, an adamant decision not to buy anything can often result in spending the next day pining over a garment that you passed up, only then realizing that it could have been really fun/practical/transformative/applicable for a specific event.

Some other factors to take into consideration that are not included on the chart (for lack of room? This seemed like a good size where one could print it small and keep it in their pocket book):

Affordability
Sometimes we love something that is simply not in our budget, though it is important to remember that just because something is expensive doesn’t mean you can afford it. You have to make the decision about whether or not the money spent on a garment will be a good investment. At this point, we often have to make compromises (why not buy the one coat you need, and pass on three cute dresses you will hardly have occasion to wear?) or save up for a needed or much desired purchase. The investment you make in a garment can strengthen your respect for an item and hopefully encourage you to take good care of it.

Supporting Small Businesses and Craftspeople
A situation in which I can often justify a slightly-un-affordable or redundant (as in, you already have something like it) purchase is in the case that doing so will support a small clothing business or contribute to the lively hood of an independent designer or craftsperson. So, you love tailored jackets and you have plenty, but purchasing the gorgeous handmade felt blazer created by a local artisan doesn’t sit too high in the thoughtless purchase ranking in my mind. The fact that you are overbuying is compensated by your support of these small industries.

Sometimes, however, editing can result in the feeling that you have too few clothes. This my friends is the fun part. It is at this point that one can engage in the most thoughtful, considered, and arguably enjoyable type of shopping: looking for exactly what you need, in your size, not stopping until you find something that you love.

Next up: Profiling My Own Wardrobe. Yikes!

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December 31, 2011 by taylor

Wardrobe Detox

After a lengthy conversation with a new acquaintance about fast fashion (and the fact that ‘slow fashion’ as a term for the alternative was less than desirable) I decided that further elaboration on wardrobe editing I mentioned in a previous post was in order.

I am certainly not the only one who feels this way (take Project 333, The Good Closet, or Transparent Seams, for example).

Fashion as we know it is about consumption. What was at first an industry designed to meet a vital need (we humans seem to need food, shelter, and, of course, clothing) soon became a rapidly multiplying circus of disposable goods, manipulative marketing, and excess-as-success.

On the one hand, we live in an area that promotes and distributes countless aesthetic choices. One can articulate their visual representation in endless ways. One is not limited to a dictated national dress, nor is it any longer the case that ‘fashionable’ items are beyond the financial range of most Americans.

On the other hand, the vast options for dress came at a price. Our cultural upbringing developed in us a hunger for the new and a taste for acquisition of good as a way of feeling accomplished. Being fashionable shifted from focus on class and creativity to accessibility, speed, and assimilation.

clothing trash

There are multiple implications of this shift and I have and will continue to elaborate on pieces of it via this blog. My focus today is on the idea of a wardrobe detox.

Open your closet, take a look around. Asses its contents. How often do you wear the things inside? Do you have things you have never worn? Does it suit your lifestyle? The most common comment I receive is that one simply has too many clothes.

Wardobe Rehab at 'A Pair and a Spare' (Click image for link)

I propose a not just an evaluation and a little editing, but rather a Wardrobe Detox.

Shed all unnecessary clothing. Donate it or recycle it into new pieces. Figure out which pieces are really important. Distill your clothing items into your unique style. Once you have your bare bones wardrobe assembled, start filling in the gaps.

Cheap, fashionable clothing from h&m, forever 21, and other places like them will be revealed for what they really are: Temporary, disposable items. Once you are down to your bare bones wardrobe, you’ll realize how little you really need. Take all the money you would have spent on 15 new shirts to wear once and have a nice piece of clothing made or buy something from a fair trade or artisan empowering retailer.

So, we won’t call it ‘Slow Fashion’ because fashion, in its nature, is not slow. Perhaps we could call it something like


essential fashion
investment fashion
thoughtful fashion
responsible fashion
durational fashion
utility fashion
considered fashion
staple fashion
curated fashion
planned fashion
smart fashion

I’ll keep thinking of good titles for this paradigm shift. In the mean time, I plan to present a series of posts dedicated to Wardrobe Reconsideration, Rehab, and Detox.

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December 28, 2011 by taylor

Winter Staples

Now that winter seems to have arrived after a long (and appreciated) fall, I’ve pulled out all of my winter clothing goodies. The array includes a few pieces that I can’t believe I went without previously.

To be honest, I only moved to the east coast six years ago but I already feel as though I have developed a system for dressing nicely and warmly for the season. The following is a list of my winter must-haves.

1. Wool (sweaters)

A handknit sweater, finished on a trip to Quebec.

This one seems a bit obvious, but I can’t stress enough how big it was for me, personally, to discover this miracle fiber. Where previous cotton and acrylic sweaters fell short, I was delighted to discover that this natural fiber would not only keep me warm but wear well and wick away moisture. Since it is, by nature, meant to warm and protect its producer (sheep) it does a great job doing the same thing for me.

2. More Wool (tights)

Wool tights

You would think that wool tights would be itchy and uncomfortable. They are not. Not only are they cozy, but they insulate your legs incredibly well. Not only do they are my legs toasty warm, but they are durable, lightweight, and more comfortable than spandex tights. I’ll usually throw on an extra pair of socks, but I have particularly bad circulation.

3. Undershirts (or vests, to the British)

a pattern book for 'health vests'

This is one of those things that seems to have vanished into the memories of yesteryear. The idea was to wear an insulating layer over your undergarments but under your clothes. I suppose this is comparable to the function of long johns or thermal shirts. I have a bunch of pieces like this, although they are in different styles and materials. I have a few beautiful 1930′s silk undershirts that I LOVE.; V-neck, short sleeve knit silk tops. I also have some sleeveless pointelle knit wool undershirts: Amazing. They insulate beautifully. And when your core is warm, the rest of you feels pleasantly warmer.

4. Waterproof Boots

Martino boots. Made in Canada. Waterproof leather.

While I have a pair of Bean Boots for the snowiest of days, I found myself in need of a pair of street shoes that wouldn’t turn into a sponge during the course of a wet winter dog-walk. My search for boots was agonizing, as they needed to fit the following criteria:

1. Waterproof

2. Good Looking

3. Comfortable

4. Ethically Manufactured

5. Under $200

You would be surprised how little is available that fits all of these needs. Cute inexpensive boots were poorly made via questionable manufacturing. Nice looking well made boots were not waterproof. Good looking and ethically manufactured boots were out of my price range (though had I more funds, I would have absolutely supported these companies). Eventually I discovered this pair of waterproof, good looking, comfy, functional, handmade in Quebec, and under $200 boots. What a journey. I recommend them, 100%. We’ll see how long they last…

5. Long(er) Skirts

1940's wool skirt from Tender Vintage on Etsy (click photo for link)

Long skirts are not just for flowing resort ensembles or boho hippie chicks. I’ll forgo the drapey, silky, chiffony maxi skirt of today(?) for the woolen, tailored, and, ahem, warm appeal of a vintage mid-calf (I believe they call it a ‘midi’) skirt. Preferably something simple and and appropriately WWII drab, leaving just a few inches between hem and boot-sock. Fantastic.

All of these items in collaboration provide me with a cozy and stylish winter experience. I’m constantly developing potential other utility fashions. I’ll get back to you with more in the future

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December 17, 2011 by taylor

Net Works

This is a call for work to those who knit and/or crochet who would like to participate in a project involving the knitting and crocheting of basketball nets for net-less courts.

Net Works Publication Call for Entries PDF

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December 13, 2011 by taylor

Editing your clothing

I am constantly editing my closet. A few years ago, I became fed up with the excessive amounts of clothing I accumulated as a thrifter, vintage collector, and fashion appreciator. Not only that, I was a bit of a clutterer in other regards.

A favorite dress of my teen years

At some point, I developed a system for editing my life’s contents, specifically my clothing. Though my criteria constantly changes, I am always editing. It took a while to get over the pangs of nostalgia. I hung on to sentimental garments that I didn’t wear and favorite pieces that didn’t suit my style. I would bring home weird thrift store things just because they were weird or seemed to represent what I was trying to convey with my fashion. Sometimes these things stuck…other times, the novelty wore off quickly and I was left with a surplus of clothing.

though this dress saw a great deal of life and suited my style, I eventually recycled the pilly, polyester shift.

When I first started downsizing it was a bit traumatic. As soon as I developed a rhythm, however, it became easier and easier. Pull in items, wear them and decide what was a staple, what worked, and what I wore, and recycle the others. Sometimes, I gifted things to friends. Good things were sold in the vintage shop I worked at or at other resale places like Buffalo Exchange. Many things simply returned to the thrift store from whence they came.

another pretty polyester dress, purged in the great return to natural fibers

Either way, I figured they had a good life and were ready to continue on their clothing journey. What made it okay for me, was that I was always buying things from small stores or thrift shops and always recycling them…only taking out of rotation those who had been deemed unwearable (though, these usually ended up as craft projects rather than garbage).

a childrens farm-scene sweater: finally deemed 'too itchy'. A rosey denim skirt with triangular yokes: finally deemed 'too small' and given to a friend

Though I don’t think I will ever thoroughly distill my personal style into a reliable formula, I feel like my ability to capture a fleeting and highly conceptual ‘style’ from time to time is getting better and easier. It is at the point where I edit my closets every few months, with a big edit occurring every time I switch over my summer/spring and fall/winter wardrobes. What is most interesting is to see the pieces that stand the test of time.

This sweatshirt has been around since highschool. Something keeps it relevent...

This brings me to the core of this blog post. I am developing a ‘service’ that seeks to help others do the same. My desire to assist others comes out of a desire to help others achieve this level of freedom and confidence about their limited wardrobe while avoiding the trap of conspicuous clothing consumption that we are lead to believe is normal. I probably buy about 4-6 clothing items for myself per year. This is due in part to the fact that I feel satisfied with my clothing and see the uselessness of excessive shopping and clothes hoarding. I am a convert to the limited-wardrobe system.

My one weakness?

I only wore this as a model at a 'vintage wedding dress' event, but it was a beautiful piece none the less...

About 8 too many vintage dresses I wear about a handful of days out of the year. I blame this on our culture not providing as many opportunities for fancy dress as it did a decade ago. My other excuse is that I’m hanging on to them for my kids, since with the kinds of things created nowadays, I doubt we’ll have much ‘vintage clothing’ in the future…

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December 10, 2011 by taylor

New things brewing

Last post was in July.

A snapshot from my new studio

I moved into a studio in Dorchester, MA with a group of awesome artists. I’m the only ‘artisan’ in the building so to speak, but the group of highly motivated critical inquirers and project collaborators has contributed quite a bit to my practice, if indirectly.

Howard Art Project from the outside, highlighted

The Howard Art Project was born in the early Fall. A lot of excessive cleaning and building went into the project. We have had three exhibitions so far: Hot For Teacher, an SMFA Performance Open Studios one night event, and the most recent Painters’ Rags and Other Artists’ Clothing, which was a show I curated featuring artists’ reflection on their clothing.

Hot For Teacher: In the background, you can see my piece, titled "Clothing Lifecycle"

Upcoming projects:
A highly exciting three item clothing collection featuring recycled and organic fabrics made into highly versatile pieces for House Of Quality. Yay!

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July 28, 2011 by taylor

more studio updates

Before

right after removing all of the vines that were growing on the wall

lots of paint scraping

a beautiful art deco doorknob

 

…more to come…

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July 8, 2011 by taylor

New Studio

I have moved my workshop into an artists collective in the Fields Corner area of Dorchester, Mass.

The group I am involved with has been renovating the space, which is the top floor of a late 1920′s department store office, over the summer.

We hope to start with regular gallery programming in October, if not sooner.

Will post before and after shots of the studio because boy are they intense. The place is going through a serious transformation!

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April 29, 2011 by taylor

INFORMATION

I recently delivered a lecture as part of the DFORUM lecture series at the SMFA.

Here is the poster.

 

I may be doing this lecture elsewhere in tandem with a basic sewing skills type class and supplements to fashion history courses at local universities. I’ll update with more information about this as it materializes.

 

 

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February 8, 2011 by taylor

Adapting a practice for a blog/Adapting a blog to a site

So I have moved my previously un-public mini-blog onto my website as a ‘current projects’ feature, as it seems to be the best mode of delivering information about my work in a timely, organized, and suitably public manner.

For the month of February:

I have started work on a pattern for the Ribbon Wrap Top I made last summer. The way I will be creating the pattern will be based on a simple, self-drafting instruction set, designed to allow anybody to use their own measurements to create this top. The ‘wrap’ nature of the top also allows it to fit just about anybody when specific measurements are used, with an emphasis on fabric choice, finishing, and styling as a way to further ‘tailor’ the garment to the person making it.

I will be offering the pattern as a nice booklet with a screenprinted cover and a ‘special tool’ included, as well as a less expensive print-at-home PDF version. More details will follow soon.

The House of Quality is also beginning the first stages of the production of a Spring/Summer 2011 limited-run clothing line. I will keep ‘everyone’ posted about this as well. Inspirations and ideas for this season’s ‘collection’ include the ladies of the Bauhaus, classic men’s workwear, edwardian stylings in contemporary fabrics, and filet crochet.

On the personal end of the spectrum, I have begun designing and working on pieces for the Colette Patterns Spring Pallette Challenge, the first thing like this (a group ‘sew along’) I have participated in. So far it has proved really inspiring and exciting.

This is my palette and 'inspiration board'

I have only drafted one of the patterns so far, a simple six gore skirt that is actually a four gore skirt, as I have merged the side gores into a darted single pattern piece. What can I say, I’m a conservationist…


Here is the basic plan

All the patterns will have to be drafted except for the dress, which will only need new collar pieces.

Updates to follow soon, on all fronts!

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